Tuesday, March 22, 2005

Gruess Gott!

Rising from the ashes of Goering's old house at Berchtesgaden, and using much of Hitler's old backyard ('Eagle's Nest'), it's ...

a Holiday Inn! (well, technically it's an 'Intercontinental Hotel Resort').

a sobering moment, let us bow our heads, lest we forget...

http://www.tagungshotel.com/hometagung.
php?Kundenid=1092737122&Language=EN

"Sit back and relax in comfortable leather armchairs and enjoy a traditional cocktail or a brandy or whiskey from one of the most spectacular collections in the whole of the region and a cigar from the hotel´s own walk in humidor."

http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/ic/1/en/hd/zceha

And there's no need to feel guilty while smoking your Cuban and drinking your Scotch, because it comes with its own Holocaust Museum:

"A couple hundred yards from the hotel itself is a modest two-story Documentation Center, with a permanent exhibit on the history of the area, including the Nazis' appropriation of Obersalzberg."

http://travel2.nytimes.com/mem/travel/article-page.html?res=9B0CE0D6153DF935A35750C0A9639C8B63

https://ssl.sueddeutsche.de/reise/artikel/398/48350/

More from the Independent:
by Jonathan Margolis
http://travel.independent.co.uk/europe/
western/story.jsp?story=618042

I was, you see, checking in as the first, and possibly last, Jew to be a guest at a beautiful, newly built, £70m InterContinental Resort Hotel at, er, Berchtesgaden - Hitler's beloved holiday home in the German Alps, near the Austrian border.

Pristine and modern, a complete contrast to the standard cuckoo-clocks-and-Eva Braun's-knickers twee Alpine hotel style, the newest jewel in the crown of the British InterContinental Hotel Group, opened just last week. It looks, from the outside, like a software company's Colorado HQ. Inside, it is modernist, with a dozen shades of brown furnishings and fixtures, stylistically cool to the point of being a bit chilly. There's even a little style joke in the lobby - a display of the mandatory animal antlers, but these made of modishly twisted shiny metal, sort of Philippe Starck does glühwein.

The Berchtesgaden InterContinental is painfully trendy. There's no hint of Wiener schnitzel on the restaurant menu. In the spa, there are rooms for different massage techniques, plus one marked "Meditation", where you can think things over while staring at a large crystal that changes colour.

Perhaps the management of the ICH Group down in Windsor should spend an hour or two in the Meditation room, because they're suffering a bit of corporate stress right now as the world's press sniggers at their courageous/foolhardy decision to stick a huge and expensive hotel in a town with a near-unique PR problem.

Berchtesgaden was more than just somewhere that the Führer liked chucking on his lederhosen, taking the air, walking the Alsatians and watching old movies. A mountainous peninsula of Bavaria surrounded, with duly ponderous symbolism, by his native Austria, the Führer cast it as the embodiment of the whole Germanic Volk myth, and hence the spiritual home of the National Socialist German Workers' Party.

Berchtesgaden was where the Führer dictated half of Mein Kampf, received world leaders, and directed much of the course of world history, Holocaust included. It served as the Third Reich's second, and, for months at a time, principal seat of government. Even the mountains were tainted. Up on top of one, Martin Bormann, Hitler's disgusting little private secretary - a Nazi so rank and servile that even Hermann Goering referred to him as "the dirty pig" - built Hitler, as a 50th-birthday present, a summer house, The Eagle's Nest, unaware that Adolf was terrified of heights. Hitler hardly ever used the place, and it is now a restaurant serving a particularly fine Jäger schnitzel at just €12.70.

.........

So, as I was going to my room, I started on the lyrics for the opening song to my successor to The Producers, "The Hoteliers". A chorus of brown-suited bellhops singing, "We're the Volk who burned the Reichstag / But be sure and have a nice Tag," was as far as I got before sitting on my bed and wondering what exactly I was doing here. Was it creepy to sleep in Hitler's garden, where Bormann and Goering literally strutted their stuff? Well, to be honest, you sort of forget about it. The rooms have more Lebensraum than the Sudetenland, the plumbing is of the gods, the duvets are, as in all German hotels, blissful, and, frankly, I had a magnificent dinner and slept like a top.
........

But there is little of the Don't Mention the War syndrome in these parts; it's actually difficult to stop people referring to it. The Bavarian government has built a superb little museum a few hundred metres from the hotel, which even on weekdays, with five feet of snow, is rammed with people from all over Germany and Austria - and not all of them in school parties. The museum uses audio-guiding technology boldly stamped "Made in Israel". And Berchtesgaden people, even as supporters, almost to a man, of "moving on", tend to be doughty advocates of the Jewish state. The Israeli bobsleigh team, known as the Frozen Chosen, were in town for a competition a fortnight ago, and were reportedly cheered to the rafters by elderly locals.

The hotel, too, does its corporate best not to shy away from the bleedin' obvious. In every bedside cabinet is the usual Gideon's Bible, plus a 600-page volume on the history of Nazism and the region - Die tödliche Utopie (The Deadly Utopia). All the staff, even the cleaners, underwent police checks to root out Nazi and neo-Nazi connections. All have been on history courses and had to sign an addendum to their contract stating that they support the democratic ideals of the Federal German state. Even the InterContinental's business model has been designed, so the management says, to exclude the dread possibility of a neo-Nazi group managing to book it for a convention - the price mechanism has been used to see off this ugly scenario: rooms start at £160 and rise to £1,700 for a suite.

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